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Spencer
The
plastic post-war Spencer bag that would indicate to the corsetiere,
and
later to the customer, that another one of millions of corsets and girdles
was
destined for another satisfied customer (one hopes).
Spencer gave similar advice as Spirella to its corsetieres in 1936 as the
student fitter was taken step by step through the demonstration and selling
procedures. Every aspect was described from the greeting at the door, the dress
and deportment of the corsetiere right through the measuring to the final sale of the article.
Volumes were issued on marketing strategy, advertising and how to address the
lady in question or even the lady's maid depending on the class of the
area.
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This cameo would appear in thousands of ladies' magazines.
The battle of the bulge. Spread
advertisements throughout the popular ladies' magazine about the dreaded
bulge. Sorry - you might realise that an expensive foundation is the answer,
but even then you will be wrong unless you get on the phone to the legendary
(and imaginary) Anne Spencer!
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Just one
appointment with the Spencer corsetiere and your problems, and bulges, are
solved. Even a girl who looks remarkably like a refugee from 'Goldfinger'
(top left) wears a Spencer, perhaps I can look like her too! Once the
corsetiere was past your front door, you might end up looking lighter, but
your husband's wallet would certainly be lighter. Joking apart, the Spencer
corsetieres make a fine job of shaping their clients and provided real
relief to many sufferers of that perennial woman's problem, the 'bad
back'. The cartoons continue ...
The Spencer Corsetiere's guide from 1936 had no
problems with the client trying on the corset over her dress. Note that most of
the corsetieres wear dresses that can be opened at the front. This is for ease
of demonstrating their own garments.
The Spencer method for measuring the client in
the modelling garment appear to be the same in 1936 as it was in 1920.
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Not that this was an official instruction
but Spencer
made sure that their fitters
handled the
clients responsibly. |
Spencer measuring methods from 1920 and 1947
are identical (above). Even in 1966 the modelling garment was essentially the
same device.
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Latterly, the number of corsetieres who possessed the
measuring garments or could even be bothered to use them became very limited.
The few remaining corsetieres simply measured over the clients' existing
foundations, which to be quite honest, probably gave a better fit than the
measuring garment, especially if the client was already wearing a Spencer.
Perhaps, however, there was subtle psychology at work here. The costs of these
corsets was always high, and the whole measuring ritual ensured that the client
would feel that value-for-money had been delivered, and that an acceptable
amount of pampering, and due care had been lavished upon her figure. If the
corsetiere simply looked and said "You'll need corset corset in the same size as
before" (however correct that might be) it spoilt the afternoon's entertainment!
An early pre-war measuring garment, far simpler than its successors |
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These post-war modelling garments (1956 above)
were in use until the end of the 20th century. The example on the right and
below was recently acquired by the Ivy Leaf collection (2004).
The garments show superb attention to detail.
Note the cup size meter !
Although the standard measuring garment
covered a huge range of women, variations were adopted for the more specialised
corsets, particularly that old favourite the abdominal support with the strongly
dished front.
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The technique simply doesn't change through
the decades. The corsetiere of 1934 and 1947 could be as critical as her successor in
1974. (Note that the client above on the right is wearing a Marks and Spencers'
lightweight panty-girdle. In reality, there's little chance that she will revert
to a Spencer).
It is a sad reflection that the client in the
1974 picture is wearing what the majority of women in last three decades would
refer to as a 'foundation garment'. In fact it barely qualifies as a pair of
elastic underpants. These floral garments were much in vogue in the 1970's and
could be bought from Marks and Spencer. Indeed, the corsetiere should be
critical.
Of course, there are
many reasons for wearing a corset:-
habit, peer pressure,
parental pressure
support for one's
figure
support for one's
stockings
but finally, one of
the most powerful is that proper corsetry allows one's clothes to fit perfectly
every time.
If a Spencer corset
can make me look like the lady on the left, then I'm going to phone my
corsetiere immediately. Silly advertising belief perhaps but Spencer sold
millions of girdles on just such images!
| Alison Perry, who was a Spencer corsetiere in the
USA, writes a lovely account of the training, trials and tribulations of a
novice corsetiere. These recollections are included in |
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But returning to the halcyon days of the 1960's, the bottom line
comes from the 1962 brochure where all the artifices of 'Before and After Woman'
are exploited to their full potential. The background is even made of graph
paper so that the alarming rise in the bosom can be charted by the
scientifically minded!
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Mrs Hattie
Pullen, Spencer Corsetière
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