Scandinavia & Finland
| I have never visited Denmark; however, my husband relates being
impressed at Copenhagen airport in 1973 by a stunning display in the
concourse of heavy satin girdles and corsets, all in brilliant white.
They appeared to be made-to-measure at some premises in Copenhagen (the Buddingsevij, near Lyngby). Certainly,
one of the very few Scandinavian corsets that I’ve ever
seen (it's Norwegian) makes full use of corset grade satin as its material of construction.
The use of the satin turns what would otherwise appear to be a very functional
surgical corset into an object of some elegance. The wearer of this piece would
certainly attain the shape required by the corset; there would be no other
option. Over the years, we have learned more. Spirella had a corset factory in Malmö, but little history is available, even in the Spirella archives at Letchworth. It was only the kindness of a Swedish contact who gave us a whole host of advert from the 1950's that opened our eyes to the excellence of Swedish corsetry. Again, we were delighted to receive permission from a charming Danish lady, Marianne, to publish her recollections of the foundation of her youth. This is especially interesting and revealing since she spent time serving in a corset shop. Her story is related in Marianne's Tale.
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A Norwegian corset from the 1960's
Spirella in Sweden
The Swedish Spirella factory opened on 17th November 1920 in
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The label from a rare example of a Swedish Spirella model 320 The Swedish factory made similar styles as Britain and America but uniquely tailored for the Scandinavian woman and her predilection for the high-waisted girdle.
The girdle (above) that looks like a British 234, is a purely Swedish confection. It is a couple of inches longer than its UK cousins, and is made from a very transparent nylon. The cross-stitching down the front of the garment of course harks back to the era of the front-laced corset. Despite the nylon and the whimsical touches, this is a very serious garment! |
"Spirella kan hjalpa Er!" Indeed. The full advertisement shows two male corsetry designers commenting on their secretary's figure. Rather chauvanistic I feel, even by the standards of the 1960's.
Spirelettes were also on offer, and note, once again, the little rosebud details at the top of the suspenders |
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Another Swedish Spirella girdle made from the same, very transparent, but exceptionally strong nylon material. Note, once again the high waist, the lovely rose-bud detailing and the chrome suspenders clips with the word 'Spirella' stamped therein. Very serious but very elegant.
As Spirella
expanded in the USA, Canada and Britain, they pushed into Europe on 17th
November 1920 when the Swedish factory was opened in Malmo. In 1950, there were
2,200 corsetieres in Sweden and by 1957, an amazing total of 3,388 corsetieres
serviced this long country with another 1,100 in Denmark. It was stated in the S
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A spirella corset 300. A Swedish Spirella designation but generically similar in style to the British and American 305. |
Below
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The weight and feel of this corset are very similar to the British versions. It is 19" long in the back and 15" in the front. It was purchased from an antique shop in Stockholm in 2003.
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The corset was probably one of the last that Spirella in Sweden made. It has been worn regularly as the horizontal creases testify. The owner was tall, since the majority of the corset's length lies below the hips. We can estimate that the woman would have been about 5' 9" tall with 32" waist and 42" hips; not unusual for a Scandinavian today, however, this women would have cut quite a figure in her youth! The owner must have cut off the suspenders (there were four originally) in favour of tights. This is another help in dating the garment. The lacing is not original. I suspect, that the owner was an elderly lady who had looked after the corset for some time. Turning to tights, the suspenders were cut off, and with advancing years, as her weight diminished, lacing became unnecessary. The old frayed laces were replaced and then never used again. The corset became a wrap-around hook-side garment that the lady probably did not need, but was an essential part of her wardrobe. |
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We received photographs of two beautiful Malmö Spirella corsets from a collector in Sweden. The fabric is similar to that of the corset above but the first corset, which is back-laced, has lacing below the busk at the lower front. This was an extra that could be ordered to aid with what Spirella (in England) quaintly referred to as "toileting". The gorgeous rosebud detailing, that seems to be a hallmark of Swedish Spirella is present as on all the other Swedish garments we have seen. |
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Interestingly, as on the girdles above, the packaging is emblazoned 'Spirella' but the word 'Spirelette' features as well. The suspenders on the corset date the garment to the 1970's since they are quite modern by corsetry standards.
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This last corset should technically be called a 'laced girdle' since the elastic sections run from top to bottom. The back-lacing would only be for periodic adjustment. Note the high waist that apparently was de rigeur for the Swedish lady of fashion. The instructions that came with this corset are displayed on a separate page.
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One of the most famous brands to come out of Sweden was the 'Miss Mary of Sweden' line, which is still marketed today. Their products featured strongly in many specialist underwear mail order catalogues, notably Ambrose Wilson. The girdle on the right was one of their classics from the 1970's and early 1980's. It is beautifully made with satin panels in all the right places and even open cross-stitching (centre-front) to remind us of the corset laces of our mothers. The girdle is surprisingly light; far lighter than the French equivalents above. It actually feels quite flimsy, however, I know from a lady who swore by hers that it was quite effective if one bought a size less than normal. I suspect, however, that this girdle would never achieve the same results as the French models. |
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Even the normally straightforward Swedes couldn't help but bow to the 1970's trend to add unnecessary extras to a functional garment. Above from 1974, a huge tummy-band, with no less than four rows of hooks-and-eyes, has been added to an otherwise pretty corselette. Although this might just (on its tightest setting) have a small chance of reducing the burgeoning hips of the real Abba woman, it meant that a basic corselette now contained around 25 hooks (crotch, hips and front). |

Swedish corsets. Even the prosaic liberty bodice is rendered desirable by careful choice of materials.
Swedish Advertisements
To quote Spirella "The
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The advertisement on the left is one of the most elegant expressions of femininity that I've ever seen, however, you can wager a year's wages that the advertisement, the girdle and the company were created by a man! |
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The girl with glasses was in great demand!


The James Bond era had a lot to answer for in advertising!
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Glossary
Svaréns S. Svaréns Trikåfabriks AB in Falköping, made Perforita.
Konfektions AB Fröja ( Swedish Spirella Malmö
Germa Stockholm, (Royal supplier) Opposite is shown a Germa girdle from the 1960's. Note the high waist that was required by the formal Swedish woman.
Kronan, Konfektionsaktiebolaget Karlson&Starck Göteborg. Rococo, Håll-In, Marquant, Midilastic. Bras Filmia
Kanters, Poirette (only import from USA) |
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AB Corsettindusti, Borås Abecita, Fox, Cid, Abc, Little-X, Bras Little-wonder
The Abecita story dates back more than 70 years in the world of undergarments. Founded in Sweden in 1932 by Joel Åkerlund, he started a major corset factory in Borås; AB Corsettindusti manufacturing traditional ladies lingerie such as corsets, girdles, and brassieres. These products were and still are the company's primary focus. Previously the company had brands such as Cid, Abc and in the 1950's they also sold the famous girdle Little X. In the 1960's, the company acquired the brand Fox. In the beginning of the 1970's, Abecita manufactured the very famous one-size bra named the Little wonder. Since the 1980's, Abecita is now part of the Swegmark group.
Swegmark, Splendide, Lyxita, Criss-Cross
Arnbergs Korsettfabrik AB in Höganäs 1893, they made girdles and corselettes for Sweden but exported to Norway and UK. 1969 the nearly bankrupt business was sold to German Triumph. Graciette, Gracita, Graciella, Gracien Lady, Gracien Junior and Miss Grace were some of the trademarks.
Arnbergs Corsettfabrik AB was founded by Olof Arnberg in Höganäs, the farmer’s son who didn´t like the agricultural work. Instead, he opened in 1893 as 21-year old, tailor - dressmaker and draper´s shop in his own building at Köpmansgatan, Höganäs. It became the beginning of the corset factory that stood for 80 years.
In 1909, he built a new big factory at Storgatan. It became the biggest workplace for the Höganäs women. They made corsets with the names Grace, Graciform and Graciella that shaped woman bodies strongly, and the production became an important source of income too many women in this coal-mining and industrial community. Many girls started at 14 years old, as errand girls or cut-threads. The men worked in the delivery or department managers’ offices and by 1939, the number employed there rose to 635 persons, mainly women with 400 dressmakers.
When Arnberg started the company in 1891, he had help of a Danish tailor-cutter with the surname Lerche. Along with her they started to produce corsets. They had problems in the beginning, since glue used in the production pasted itself though onto the tailor´s dummys. In Copenhagen, he learnt of a method a copper dummy was used and shaping done with steam.
Arnbergs did not sell only products in Sweden, they had also an extensive export to Norway and England. Everything from the first tight-fitting corsets, flat corselettes in 1920, and later, models in more elastic materials with pointed breasts. Most of the raw material, 10,000 metres elastic fabric per week, was produced by the factory. Production grew to 50,000 garments each week. In the last years the production, in addition to corsets, corselettes, brassieres and girdles, was also extended to nightdresses.
When Olof Arnberg died in 1953, the youngest son, Lennart Arnberg, assumed the responsibility as MD for the company.
The halcyon period was in the 1950’s when the production increased during the son Lennart's management, from five to 25 millions Kroner, due to improved mechanical parking and marketing. At one point the turnover exceeded 70 millions Kroner.
When Arnberg’s Korsettfabrik started advertising for the first time in 1952, they begun with the big selling girdle Graciette. The anticipated selling 12,000 girdles but it became 60,000!
Then came the down- turn, despite traveling to America to gain new inspiration and purchase new materials. Arnbergs and every other corset makers’ biggest antagonist was the advent of the panty-hose (tights). In 1965, pantyhose came to Sweden and they rapidly became immensely popular. Now, nobody needs suspenders, corset or girdle to hold up the stockings. The skirts became also shorter and shorter. Thus did the corset sector face big losses each year and by 1967, only 186 employees were left on the factory.
In 1969, Arnberg sold the company to German Triumph and narrowly escaped bankruptcy. Lennart Arnberg would continue to work in Triumph’s factory in Turku for another 16 years.
Left in Höganäs were only stocks and offices. The factory building in the block along Storgatan was demolished 1982. As with so many towns, the characterful corset factory was replaced by faceless, anodyne real-estate offices and fast-food outlets. (Ironically, it would be these food parlours that provided modern woman with a desperate need for adequate corsetry, but with neither the knowledge nor the outlets to supply them any more – Ivy’s comment.)