SPECIAL ITEMS for FULL-FIGURED WOMEN
Sales
Exploitation
Some
of the garments advertised in store catalogs have been a straightforward
response to providing adequate, healthful support for a larger woman's body.
Sadly, I feel that most of the time, advertising has been conducted in a way to
exploit the feelings and concerns of full-figured ladies. This was clearly seen
in a sidebar on page 126 of the 1936 Sears catalog. The message for a woman was
that if you're "fat" (or you think you're fat) then you are forlorn!

At
least the following two images (Sears 1936 and 1958) are more oriented on
support rather than squashing flesh!
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I
have to chuckle as I examine the illustration for Miss Mary of Sweden.
Personally, I think the lady looks great with her "before" image.
However, note that she has a bigger smile on the right. Regardless of what she
wears, however, her body mass has to go somewhere! Therefore, I must conclude
that the image was "touched-up" or that a front view would show her as
"wider"! Likewise, for the "before-after" ladies in Sears
(1979) and Roamans ((1982-83). |
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The
sketch shown in the 1976 Sears closely follows the image and position used for
the "Miss Mary of Sweden" product line. I wonder if Sears was selling
this product under license. The
change depicted by JC Penny in 1980 mostly appears to result from improved
posture. The model's body mass seems to be realistically redistributed. The
collection of "Diet Trim Shapers" advertised by Sears in 1991 featured
versatility. The customer did not have to replace her foundation wardrobe as she
lost weight. Note the level of detail showing garters and drop crotch in the
sketch.
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Exploitation
of feelings is often obvious in the garment descriptions, and implied in most
advertising when garments for full-figured ladies are portrayed on models who
are almost petite. (The most egregious example of this appeared on page 8 and 25
of the 1995 Lady Grace catalog where a lady who modeled "C" size bras
in other parts of the same catalog, was required to model a bra that appeared to
be in the "EE" range (or larger)! Her image in a slip on page 5
reveals her actual, smaller size. I recall seeing this image used on a website
to represent a "worst in category" for a bra advertisement.
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Such
images are ludicrous! Our society (and most societies through history) has
defined images of an idealized female form. I don't have any particular problem
with that basic thought. However, in the US today, this image has also been used
to criticize, embarrass, and/or isolate people of both sexes (but especially
women) who do not "conform" to the ideal - particularly with respect
to weight and overall size. Posi In
the early 1990's, "Just My Size" distributed small seasonal catalogs
that represented healthy and positive images for women. For example, the lovely
full-figured model in 1993 was the only one I've seen wearing glasses. That same
year, Just-My-Size featured mature women, women of color and a woman in a
wheelchair as models (although the woman in the wheelchair did not model
underwear). I've included one page (below) from that catalog which pulled
together these different groups of women. I interpret this as a distinct effort
to be inclusive. Unfortunately, by the mid-1990's, JMS no longer exhibited this
innovation. I believe that "One Hanes Place" absorbed this catalog,
and its format was changed to fit that firm's style.
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As
previously noted in the section on models, JC Penny began to use black women for
modeling by the late 1970's. Also, older women modeled slips for Sears and JC
Penny in that period. However, JC Penny showing a mature woman in 1976 (in a
garment that really defined her figure) seemed to be an innovation at that time.
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Image
Enhancement:
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Most
of this essay focuses on garments that were designed to control
"excess" flesh. However, some women feel that they were shortchanged.
In 1951, Daisy Cooper (Pat. # 2,569,229) developed one type of image
enhancement, to improve a woman's "rear view". I'm sure there are many
examples of garments that used this technique. I selected the example from 1992
JC Penny since it was in color and clearly showed the padding. Another type of
approach to emphasizing a woman's bottom was illustrated earlier in the ad from
Ecuador, which exposed the lady's "cheeks" completely.
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Later
inventors like Nancy Ganz (Pat. # 5,954,564) concentrated on using modern
stretch fabrics to achieve good shaping and support without padding.
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In
2000, Rhonda and Edward Noble (Pat. # RE-36905) invented a more dynamic approach
that allows for personal adjustment for buttocks shaping. This may be adapted
both for underwear and outerwear. Additionally, they wanted to address the
problem of preventing the garment crotch portion from squeezing into the woman's
genitalia (the "cameltoe" effect) that occurs with some other tight
fitting garments. They pointed out that this is unsightly and uncomfortable.
This invention received national attention through an article by Teresa Riordan
in the "Patently Weird" section of ABC News-Live.
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