Fitting the Charis Belt



The Belt


 Many Prospective customers who really need the support and control of an inner belt -- not just for the improved abdominal lines which it will help them to achieve -- but also for posture correction, and for the relief from physical strain (that "tired feeling") which it will afford them -- will tell you:

"I had a garment with an inner belt once, and I didn't like it.  The belt was uncomfortable.  It cut at its edges, and pushed my bust up."

 That is because she purchased the garment by her Bust Measurement, and received the Belt that came with it.  It was fixed in its shape, its depth and its position.  No doubt it fitted the garment purchased, perfectly, but when one considers the varying height and abdominal development of the hundreds of women having the same bust measurement, is it at all surprising that the one belt supplied with all garments of the same size, should fail, in most instances, to fit the purchaser's figure, or to prove comfortable?



The Charis Inner Belt


for use in Charis Lacer Control garments and girdles is different, because it is fitted to the abdominal problem of the individual customer, not to her bust measurement.

1st--It is Interchangeable in both its Depth and its Style.

2nd--Its Position in the garment can be Raised or Lowered.

3rd--It Lifts Upward and Backward, in perfect harmony with Nature (instead of merely pressing in).

4th--It Shortens with the Body in bending and sitting.

5th--Its Tension is Adjustable to individual need.

6th--In "Outer Lacer" models the Tension is Adjustable from the Outside (with the garment).

The Garment is fitted to the natural development of the individual figure, enabling it to achieve the "grip" or "anchorage" on the figure which is necessary to assist the belt in the efficient performance of its duties.

The Belt is selected according ti the length of the individual figure, from the top of any fleshy development over the diaphragm, to its natural groin line, and the shape of the abdomen.





Eight different belts are regularly available for use in any Lacer-Control garment or girdle.  These include Two different Styles of Belt, and Six different Depths.



Two Styles


Of belts are carried in regular stock. These are the "S" OR STRAIGHT BELT-for the customer whose abdominal outline is normal or nearly normal.

"C" OR CUPPED BELT-Designed to support heavy or pendulous flesh at the base of the abdomen. In addition to the "S" and the "C" styles of belt, a third style may be ordered made up "Special," at a modest extra charge. This is known as the "CC" OR SPECIALLY CUPPED BELT -For the customer whose abdominal flesh is excessively heavy and pendulous.




Six Depths


Since the Charis Belt is made in Six different Depths, any one of which can be used in any lacer-control garment or girdle of corresponding size, it is a simple matter to select a belt -just deep enough to reach from the top of the fleshy development over the diaphragm, down to where it cups in under the pelvic structure, enclosing all of the abdominal flesh.

SPECIAL BELTS (Extra Charge) Should be ordered by depth number, taken with the Belt Tab of the Measuring Guide.

'CC" Belts may be ordered made up Special in any depth necessary. "S" and "C" Belts may also be ordered made up Special in any depth not carried in regular stock.


Can Be Raised or Lowered


Since the well fitted Belt will enclose not only the abdomen but also the fleshy development over the diaphragm (See Page 14). the Normal Position of the Belt is with the top eyelet matching the 1st eyelet above the waistline of the garment. Hence this eyelet is known as the 1st eyelet, and the one at the waist, line of the garment as the 2nd eyelet.

LOWERING THE BELT for the customer whose Bust is formed low, the Belt may be dropped an eyelet or two below Normal Position, to avoid cutting or crowding the Bust flesh upward. It must never, how, ever, be dropped below the 3rd regular eyelet (which is the first eyelet below the waistline of the garment).

Extra Eyelets are provided at the bottom of the ,Side Flap to permit the lowering of the Belt.

RAISING THE BELT-The Belt may also be raised an eyelet or two when necessary, to enclose a high fleshy development over the diaphragm, or prominent lower ribs. Some garments feature extra eyelets for this purpose, at the top of the Side Flap. Where these are not provided, a small Eyelet Tab may be inserted in the underarm seam, directly above the Side Flap. (See Page 12).



Lifts Upward and Backward


The so-called "inner belt" of the ordinary foundation garment merely presses inward (contrary to nature).

Guided by the line of the lacers, and the diagonal seaming used to increase the support over the base of the abdomen, the Charis belt lifts Upward and Backward in perfect harmony with the great diagonal muscles of the abdominal "wall."

A careful selection of the right Depth of Belt enables us to enclose all the flesh of the abdomen, and over the diaphragm.'

If the right Style of Belt has been chosen, it will follow the outline of the figure closely, anchoring below the pelvic structure.

The adjustment of the Charis patented lacing feature will then lift the entire abdomen gently Upward and Backward, relieving the strain on the sensitive and often overworked muscles of the abdominal wall.

Thus the abdomen is flattened, posture improved, and the wearer relieved of the strain on nerve centers that is responsible for so much fatigue--backache--headache--etc.



Shortens with the Body in Bending and Sitting


Made with two overlapping sections that "fold up" on each other in bending and sitting, the Charis Belt adjusts itself immediately and perfectly to every movement of the body.

This feature enables the Belt to fit closely into the groin, without cutting-and to maintain its "anchorage," lifting the abdomen off the limbs as the wearer sits down.

It also enables the upper section to remain in position, where it encloses and controls the flesh at and above the waistline, without the slightest tendency to crowd the bust flesh upward.



Adjust It Yourself To Fit Yourself


That is the theory upon which. the Charis Bend-Easy Belt was designed.

Lacers, easily adjusted by the customer herself provide for the daily adjustment of the Belt to the just right tension for personal comfort, and to effect the desired improvement in the abdominal outline of the figure.

When an Outer-Lacer model is chosen the tension of, the Belt may be adjusted from the outside, after the garment itself has been fastened. This is made possible by the fact that the Belt and Garment are adjusted in unison, by means of a single lacer (an exclusive Charis patented feature).




Determining the Style of Belt


To afford the maximum degree of support and control the Belt must "hug" or follow the outline of the figure very closely.

A study of the two figures illustrated will help you to determine whether an "S" or "C" Belt should be chosen for the individual customer. The white outline of the second figure shows the normal abdominal development, and the shaded area a figure problem quite common to the Group 5-6 figure.

Remember that there is a third Style of Belt that may be ordered at a small extra charge, when necessary--a "CC" Belt (Specially Cupped) for the extremely pendulous abdomen.




The Belt Measurement


This is to be taken with the center front, or "Belt Tab" of the Measuring Guide.

First make sure the waist tape is straight around the figure, at the exact waistline. Then study the figure, and determine where the upper edge of the belt should come to completely cover and enclose the fleshy development over the diaphragm. Raise the upper end of the Belt Tab to this point. Make note of the line on this tab which comes nearest to the top of the waist tape. This indicates the Garment Eyelet into which the 1st Eyelet of the Belt should be laced.

While still holding the upper end of the Belt Tab in position, measure -straight down the center front, of the figure to beneath the pelvic structure, and all body flesh. The mark which comes nearest to this point, on your measuring tab, indicates the Depth of Belt needed. Order Belts by Depth Number, not inch measurement.



Raising the Belt


When the Belt is laced in its Normal Position the 1st eyelet of the Belt matches the 1st eyelet above the Waistline of the garment.

For some group 5-6 figures, however, your measuring guide will indicate that the Belt should be laced one or even two eyelets above its normal position, to cover a high fleshy development over the diaphragm (or prominent lower ribs).

Certain lacer-control garments feature extra eyelets above the waistline to facilitate the raising of the Belt when necessary (see sketch 1).

To raise the Belt in a garment that does not feature these extra eyelets, a separate "Eyelet Tab" should be inserted at the under, arm seam, at the top of the Side Flap. Keep this "Eyelet Tab" straight with the waistline of the garment, and exactly the same width as the Side Flap. Be sure the eyelets are evenly spaced (see sketch 2).

"Eyelet Tabs" may be purchased made up, ready for insertion.



Dropping the Belt


The Belt may, when necessary, be fitted up underneath a fallen Bust, as the Bust Pocket of a well fitted garment will lift the fallen flesh. But care must be taken to avoid any tendency of the Belt to crowd low, heavy Bust flesh upward, as our customer sits down.

Occasionally, for the customer whose Bust is formed unusually low, your Belt Tab,, when held where you feel the top of the Belt should come, will indicate that the Belt should be dropped to the 2nd regular eyelet (the waistline eyelet) or, in the case of an extremely low Bust, even to the 3rd eyelet.

Never drop the top of the Belt below the 3rd regular eyelet or it will be uncomfortable, and fail to afford your customer the proper support.



The Well-Fitted Belt


1st. The Upper Edge will completely cover and enclose the fleshy development over the diaphragm (also the lower ribs, if prominent).

2nd. The Lower Edge will cup under the bones of the pelvic structure, enclosing all body flesh.

3rd. The entire Belt will "hug" the outline of the figure.

4th. The Lower Edge will fit closely, but not tight (or the belt may cut in when the wearer sits down).

5th. The Center Front Bones will be full length, and centered between the limbs.

6th. All other bones will end well above the natural fold (groin) line.

Note: Order Belts by Depth Number, Style and Size. Charis Belts are made in Even Sizes only, and may be used in both the corresponding Size of garment, and the next larger odd size. For instance, a Size 8 Belt will be used in both a Size 8 and Size 9 garment.



Altering the Belt


Alterations should rarely be necessary, provided the correct style and depth of belt has been chosen.

TO SNUG THE LOWER EDGE, remove the lower binding, and the front bones. Then rip the seam between Sections A and B for 5 or 6 inches. Trim the excess size (never more than 3/8" at the bottom of the Belt) from the forward edge of Section B, tapering to nothing very gradually (#18). Restitch the seam, replace the boning, and then rebind the lower edge.

TO SHORTEN THE BELT trim the width of one eyelet, or when necessary, two eyelets, from the upper edge of the diaphragm section. Replace the bones with shorter ones, and rebind the edge (#23).

CAUTION: Never trim anything from the lower edge of the belt, as this would destroy its anchorage.

TO FLATTEN, a small dart may be used at the center front of the C Belt. This must not be more than 1/8 inch deep and must taper to nothing very 15 gradually, at each end.



Ask Yourself


Why are the belts supplied with the ordinary type of foundation garment so often uncomfortable? In what 6 ways does the Charis belt differ from that of an ordinary garment? How many different belts are available for use in your customer's garment? What are the two styles regularly available in the Charis belt? For what type of abdomen is each of these belts intended? How many different depths of belts are there? In what depths are each of the two styles regularly available? What size of belt should you use in a size 9 garment? How do we determine which eyelet the belt should be laced into, for the individual customer? What is it sometimes necessary to do when the belt must be raised an eyelet? Why is it sometimes advisable to drop the belt to the second or third eyelet? How do we determine the depth of belt which is best for the individual customer? Where should the upper edge of the well-fitted belt come? What is the correct position for the lower edge of the belt? How should the correct style of belt fit? Is it permissible to shorten the center front bones of a Charis belt? Where should the alteration to shorten a belt be made, at the top, or the bottom?


Good service

 is essential to the development of a permanent and a profitable Charis clientele - and Good Service must start with the choice of a suitable garment - for regardless of its perfection of design and workmanship, no foundation garment can afford either comfort or the desired figure improvement unless it has been correctly applied to the requirements of the individual figure.

Our Charis system of Corsetry recognizes the fact that feminine figures of the same size or bust measurement will vary from each other in three vitally important ways -

  1. 4th Dimension, or degree of corset need.
  2. Hip Type, or size of hips as related  to that of the upper figure.
  3. Skirt Length, or length from waistline to below fleshy development of lower figure.

Charis Products of the same Size have been designed to fit every important combinations of these three points of difference.  There is at least one Charis Product ideally suited for the needs of each individual customer.

In analyzing your customer's figure, You the Charis Corsetiere will follow exactly the same procedure Charis Designers follow in creating the individual garment. A careful analysis will infallibly lead you to the one garment best suited to the figure requirements of each individual customer.


Degree of Corset Need

Every woman, as she looks into her mirror, sees two figures reflected there - her figure as it really is, and the well balanced, nicely proportioned figure she hopes her new foundation garment will help her to achieve.

The ordinary foundation garment is designed to fit primarily the body's measurements, but the difference between our customer's figure as it really is and the figure she hopes to achieve, is not just a question of measurements. There is another consideration of equal, if not greater, importance - the condition of the body.

What do we mean by condition? The condition of the body is determined by whether the muscles are still firm and vigorous, with the result that the outline of the figure is both sharply defined and nicely rounded - or whether tired flabby muscles have let the structure of the body slump, the abdomen to sag, hips to spread, posture to become faulty and superfluous flesh to form over the shoulder blades, through the waistline, etc.

It's this condition of the body that determines the individual degree of corset need, or in other words, the type of foundation garment needed to enable the individual wearer to achieve the desired figure improvement.

Because this condition of the body cannot be measured with tape, it is always constituted the most difficult problem to evaluate with any degree of accuracy.  The Charis Corsetiere alone is equipped to "measure" or appraise the body's condition accurately, through the use of her clever scientific garment selector - the Charisometer.


4th Dimensional Corsetry

All figures devided into three groups, on the basis of their 4th dimension, or degree of corset need, as follows -

Group 1-2 Needing Guidance and very light control.

Group 3-4 Needing Control and moderate support.

Group 5-6 Needing Correction and adequate support.

The Charis Line is comprised of three distinctly individual groups of products, each of which has been designed especially to meet the corset needs of one of these three Figure Groups. The First Symbol of the Charis Style Code always indicates the Figure Group - or degree of corset need - for which the individual Product has been designed.

Note:     Only one of the two numerals used to designate the Figure Group is included in the Code of the individual Product. Where the odd number 1,3 or 5 is used, the Product affords a lesser degree of figure influence than afforded by those Products identified by the corresponding even number 2, 4 or 6.

Examples - Lighter Control Firmer Control
Figure Group 1-2 1A4 2A4
Figure Group 3-4 3A5 4A5
Figure Group 5-6 5A5 6A5


Three Hip Types

Figures of the same size or bust measurement will vary greatly in their proportions and hip development. This gives rise to difficulty in fitting the individual figure in the ordinary foundation garment, designed only for the figure with an average hip development, because it must be chosen to a size large enough to fit the most developed part of the figure, and altered, often quite extensively, where the figure is smaller.

To overcome this difficulty, at the same time affording the individual customer far better results than can be achieved through the use of alterations, each size of Charis garment is made in three different hip developments to fit the three outstanding Hip types as follows -

Narrow Hip

The Hips are Narrow in relation to the size of  the figure at the Bust and Waist.

Average Hip

Hips evenly proportioned or Average in relation to the size of the figure at the Bust and Waist.

Full Hip

Hips large or full in relation to the size of figure at the Bust and Waist.

The second Symbol of the Style Code used to identify the individual Charis product will always be the letters "N", "A" or "F", indicating the Hip Type of the figure for which the individual Product is intended.

Examples- Narrow Hip: 5N5, Average Hip 5A5, Full Hip 5F5


Corset Skirt Length

The most frequently encountered of all corsetry problems is that of the garment "riding up" on the figure, yet thousands of garments are being bought by size alone, without a thought for their Skirt Length.

 To achieve the anchorage necessary to keep it in place throughout the day, a foundation garment must be just long enough to cup in under the full curve of the thighs and lower back, completely enclosing the fleshy development of the lower figure.

Women of not only the same Size but also the same height, wil vary decidedly in their length from the waistline down. For this reason Charis Products of the same size are available in Skirt Lengths varying from 13 to 18 inches. (A special 19 inch length may be ordered at an extra charge).

The Third Symbol of the Charis Style Code always indicates the Skirt length of the individual Product, taken from the waistline down, at the underarm seam - as follows-

3-13 Inch Skirt Length

4-14 Inch Skirt Length

5-15 Inch Skirt Length

6-16 Inch Skirt Length

7-17 Inch Skirt Length

8-18 Inch Skirt Length

Examples 5A3: 13 inch Skirt, 5A5 15 inch Skirt, 5A7: 17 inch Skirt


Three Symbol Basic Corset

You can now see that the first three Symbols of the Charis Style Code ( for all Products other than Bandeaux or Brassieres) constitute a basic code, covering the three outstanding points of difference found in feminine figures of the same Size and the corresponding points of difference found in Charis Products of the same Size, as follows:

1srt Symbol - 4th Dimension (Figure Group)

2nd Symbol - Hip Type (whether N, A or F)

3rd Symbol - Skirt Length

Example - A Product for which the Basic Code is 5A7 should be chosen for the customer whose figure analysis indicates -

"5" Figure Group No. 5 needing control and adequate support.

"A" Average Hip Type

"7" 17 inch Skirt Length.

All Charis Products designated by the same three symbol Basic Code are designed, of course for the same figure - the figure whose analysis results in the same three symbols - and it is only when a Product with a Basic Code corresponding to her individual figure analysis is chosen that our customer will enjoy the maximum comfort and figure improvements from her Charis.


Figure Analysis

Charis Figure analysis chart.

There are five part of the figure that are vitally important to the beauty of the feminine silhouette.  The condition of each of these five vital parts must be considered in appraising the 4th Dimension, or corset need of the individual figure.

These five parts (which from now on are spoken of as Factors) are:

  1. Shoulder Blades
  2. Waist and Diaphragm
  3. Abdomen
  4. Hips and thighs
  5. Posture

Appraise the condition of each of these Factors as follows:

"A" - Firm flesh. Figure line Good.

"B" Moderately fleshy. Need for minor figure improvement.

"C" Fleshy. Figure line needs correction.

Be sure to check the condition determined upon for the individual Factor, in the box provided on the Figure Analysis Chart, as you write down the result of the nearest measurement. Be sure that the condition of all five Factors has been appraised and checked before turning to your Charisometer to add up these conditions, thereby determining your customer's Figure group.


To Determine the Figure Group

Use your Charisometer to add up the corset need indicated by the condition you determined for each of the five Factors.

The Charisometer consists of three parts which we will refer to as the -

"BODY" - this is the transparent outer part or jacket on which you will find the red and blue Figure Group Bar.

"SLIDE" - This is the moveable inner section on which you will find the "Index Points" for the A, B or C condition of the individual Foctors.

"FINDER" - This is the moveable transparent band around the Body, in the center of which you will find a red "Arrow Line".


To Operate the Charisometer

First make sure that the Body and Slide are even at the ends, and that the red arrow line is directly over the red Index Line -  then note the ?condition?? for the 1st Factor, Shoulder Blades. Let us assume that this is "B".  Proceed to -

1st - Move the Finder to the right, until it is directly over the 1B Index Point.

2nd - Move the Slide to the right until the Index Line is again directly under the Arrow Line.

Do not move either the Finder or Slide backward, but proceed to consider the condition for the next Factors in the order listed. For example -

Factor 2- Waist and Diaphragm Condition checked "B". -Repeat Steps1 and 2 - first moving the Finder until the Arrow is directly under the 2B Index Point - then moving the slide until the Index Line is again directly under the Arrow Line.
Factor 3- Abdomen. Condition checked "B". - Move the Finder until the Arrow Line is over the 3B Index Point - then move the Slide until the Index Line is again directly under the Arrow Line.
Factor 4- Hips and Thighs. Condition checked "A". -Since the Arrow Line is already at the 4A Index Point it becomes ??? that when the "A" condition has been checked for any Factor, neither the Finder nor the Slide need be moved. Pass on to the next Factor.
Factor 5- Posture. Condition checked "C". -Move the Finder until the Arrow Line is over the 5C Index Point - then move the Slide until the Index Line is directly under the Arrow Line.

When all five Factors have been considered the Arrow Line will point to your customer's correct Figure Group, which in this case is Five.

Note: Occasionally the Arrow Line will reach Group 6 before all five Factors have been considered.  When this happens there is no need to consider the remaining Factors, because Group 6 garments afford maximum control for all five of these.


Recognize Customer Preference

After completing your analysis you should conscientiously direct your customer's attention to the group of garments which, as indicated by your Charisometer, have been especially designed for her exact degree of corset need, or in other words, to fit her all important 4th Dimension.

Note: When the Arrow Line points to a part of the Figure Group Bar which is half red, half blue, the customer's 4th Dimension places her on the borderline, between two groups.  She may be fitted in a garment chosen for either group, but as a rule she will prefer a garment chosen from the group indicated by the smaller number.  For example, most customer whose figure are on the borderline between Group 2-3 will prefer a Group 2 model, and those on the borderline between Group 4-5 will prefer a Group 4 model.

Should your customer express a fixed preference for a type of garment other than that indicated by her analysis, you should immediately explain that this will not be as effective in its influence upon her figure because it represents a compromise between her needs and her prefere4nces, but that if it is what she likes and wants, her pleasure in wearing it may be greater than would result from the wearing of a different type of garment even though this afforded greater figure improvement.


Choosing the Garment

Choose a garment your customer will like well enough to wear daily, and buy again. There is no Good reason to be  going through the sale of a garment that our customer lays away in her dresser drawer - no matter how perfectly that garment may be suited to her figure needs.


The Customer's Measurements

must be taken carefully, and at the point, or they will not be accurate.


Have Customer Disrobe

The most accurate measurements are those taken over the uncorseted figure wearing just a slip or light undergarment.

1st - Take Bust measurement straight around the figure in line with the fullest point.

2nd - Take Waist Measurement straight around at the natural waistline.

3rd - Take abdominal Measurement axactly 4 inches below the natural waistline.

Note: The Bust, Waist and Abdominal Measurements are used to determine the Size of Garment (or Girdle) needed.

4th - Take Hip Measurement exactly 8 inches below the natural waistline.

Note: The Hip Measurement is compared with the Size of garment needed to determine the Customer's Hip Type.

5th - Take Skirt Length measurement at the side of figure (underarm) from the exact waistline to below fleshy development of thighs and lower back.


The Charis Measuring Guide

This clever device indicates just where each measurement (except the bust) is to be taken. It serves also as a guide in keeping the Tape Measure straight around the figure, parallel with the floor.

The long unprinted tape is placed around the customer's figure to mark the waistline. Then the center, or "Belt Tab", is drawn to the center front of the figure and one of the side, or "Skirt Tabs" is drawn to each side, at the underarm.

The correct point for the taking of the abdominal measurement (4 inches below waistline) and also the Hip Measurement (8 inches below Waistline) is identified by a heavy line and by instructions printed right on each of the Tabs of the Guide. Each of the Skirt Lengths in which various Charis Products are available is also indicated by a line printed on each of the Skirt Length Tabs.

Note: Consult Sertvice Reference Unit No. 2 for information relative to the taking of the Belt Measurement.  Keep a small rubber band around the long loop of the Belt Tab, just below the Waist tape, to keep this Tab from slipping over the Skirt Tab.


Post Mark the Waistline

The customer's Waistline is a sort of measuring center which we must locate before starting to take her measurements. Place your hands around the figure from in back, with the thumbs on the spine. Ask her to bend, first to one side and then to the other.  Feel for this bend.  The point where it occurs is the figure's true Waistline.

Place the long tape of the Measuring Guide straight around the figure in line with this bend. Pass the end of the tape through both slides of the buckle and draw it in to fit the body.  To fasten, double the end of the tape to make a loop and pass this loop back over the one slide of the buckle and under the other.

Draw the Belt Tab to the exact center front of the figure, and one of the Skirt Taps to each underarm, as illustrated.

Do not remove the Guide until all of the measurements have been taken.  To unfasten, simply pull on the end.


Taking the Bust Measurement

IMPORTANT: it is best to sit down for the taking of the measurements ( with the exception of the Waist measurement), as this brings your eye on a line with your problem.  take Bust, Waist, Abdomen and Hip Measurements from the back of the figure, so the customer can help you by holding the Tape Measure in place in the front.

From the side, study the silhouette of the figure to determine the point of fullest development.  Normally this will be five or more inches above the waistline. Bear in mind that the Bust Measurement is never to be taken less than five inches above the waistline, as a measurement taken below that point would fail to include the wide part of the chest and shoulder blade structure, which msut be comfortable.

Place the Tape Measure straight across the front of the figure right at the fullest point (but not less than 5 inches above the Waistline), with the 17 inches mark directly ??? ask the customer to assist you by ??? position over each bust. Draw the ??? back, holding it just smooth with ??? at the exact point where it laps. This ??? Bust Measurement. Do not try to re??? all the measurements have been taken, but ??? on her Figure Analysis Chart - checking, at the same time the condition of the Shoulder Blade factor.


Take the Waist Measurement with Customer Seated

Drop the Tape to your customer's Waistline. Make sure that it is straight with the floor and directly over the Waistline Tape.

Stand up. Ask your customer to "Please be seated," letting the Tape Measure respond to the natural expansion of the figure as she does so.

This measurement should always be taken slightly easy.

Note: If you are using the Code side of the Charis Tape Measure be sure to lap this to the special point indicated for the taking of the Waist Measurement.

Check the condition of the Waistline and Diaphragm Factor on the Figure Analysis Chart, as you write the Waist Measurement down.


Taking the Abdominal Measurement

The first of the heavy lines printed on the Tabs of the measuring guide indicate where the Abdominal Measurement is to be taken.  Draw the Tape Measure until it covers these lines. Make sure the Tape is straight around, parallel with the floor.

This measurement will come, on many figures, directly over one of the most positive??? the structure of the body, the "hip??? be careful to draw the tape just??? the flesh, not snug.

??? unduly hard, or the hip bones ??? take the Abdominal ???tly easy.

??? check the A, B or C condition of the abdominal Factor as you write the Abdominal Measurement down.


Taking the Hip Measurement

Draw the tape down until it covers the second row of heavy lines on the Tabs of your Guide, indicating where the Hip Measurement should be taken. Check to be sure the Tape is Parallel with the floor.

Most customers like their foundation garment to fit snugly over the hips and thighs, so for normal flesh conditions the Tape Measure may be drawn until it dents the fleshy outline just a little, in taking this measurement.

If the flesh is unduly hard or the bone structure thinly padded, do not dent, but draw the Tape Measure just smooth with the flesh. Check the condition of the Hip and Thigh factor as you write the Hip Measurement down.


Determining the Size of Garment Needed

The size of a Charis garment is indicated by its size at the Bust.

Every garment (and girdle) is cut at least five inches smaller at the waist than its size, so to determine the Size of garment needed for comfort at that point, you must -

First add five to the waist measurement

Example No. 1 Example No. 2
Bust Waist Abdomen Bust Waist Abdomen
39 33 39 39 35 39
  +5     +5  
  38     40  

Now you can see that the size 39 garment called for by the first customer's Bust Measurement will also fit comfortably through the waistline, but the second customer must have a Size 40 garment for comfort at that point.

After adding the necessary 5 to the waist measurement compare the result with the Bust and Abdominal Measurement.  The the largest number resulting from these three measurements is the Size of the garment needed.

Example No.1

Example No. 1 Example No. 2 Example No. 3
Bust Waist Abdomen Bust Waist Abdomen Bust Waist Abdomen
40 34 39 40 36 40 40 35 41
  +5     +5     +5  
  39     41     40  
Size 40 Garment needed Size 41 Garment needed Size 41 Garment needed


Determine the size of Girdle Needed

??? measurement. Compare the result with the Abdominal Measurement. The larger of the two numbers is the size of the Girdle needed.

Example No. 1 Example No. 2
Bust Waist Abdomen Hip Bust Waist Abdomen Hip
40 34 38 42 40 34 40 42
  +5       +5    
  39       39    
Size 39 Girdle needed Size 40 Girdle needed


The Customer's Hip Type

is determined by the relationship of the Hip Measurement to the Size of the Garment Needed.

Here is a chart which shows very clearly the relative Hip Measurements that are best taken care of by each of the three Hip Types.

Size 40 Garment Needed
Hip Measurement 39-40 41 - 42 - 43 44 - 45
"N" hip Type "A" Hip Type "F" Hip Type


Rules for Determining the Hip Type

The Hip type is "A" - When the Hips measure one to three inches larger than the size of garment (girdle) needed.

The Hip type is "N" - When the Hips measure the same or smaller than the size of Garment (Girdle) needed.

The Hip type is "F" - When the Hips measure four or more inches larger than the size of Garment needed.

Size Needed Hip Measurement   Hip type
40 39 1 inch smaller than Size needed N
40 40 Same as Size needed N
40 41 1 inch larger than size needed A
40 42 2 inches larger than size needed A
40 43 3 inches larger than size needed A
40 44 4 inches larger than size needed F
40 45 5 inches larger than size needed F
40 46 6 inches larger than size needed

(Choose outer-lacer model)



To Determine the Skirt Length

Take the Skirt Length measurement at the side of the figure (underarm) from the natural waistline to a point well below the fleshy development of tighs and lower back.

Use a Skirt Tab of the Measuring Guide. Hold the Guide at the Waistline with one hand, and spreading the other wide, run it down the side of the figure until it stops naturally, below thge curve of the flesh.

Read the measurements printed on the skirt tab tape at the point where your hand stops.  This is the skirt length needed. When in doubt, it is wise to use the longer of the two lengths considered.

Consult the Charis Fashion Book for information relative to the length available in your customer's correct Figure Group and Hip type, in the Skirt Length needed.


Special Skirt Lengths

???needed or outer-lacer model may be ordered made up Special in a 19 inch Skirt Length at an extra charge. Built-up shoulder lacer-control models may be ordered in a special 18 inch Length??? control girdles in a Special 20 inch Length. Dana material only. Remember, Special garments are not returnable for credit or exchange.

Note: No order can be accepted for garments or girdles of the elastic control type, in any skirt length other than those listed in the Fashion Book.

Check the condition of your customer's posture when writing down her Skirt Length Measurement.


The Charis Size Code

The size code of Charis Product is indicated by a number (as is, for instance, the size of a shoe.) To arrive at this ??? or Code Size, we have simply subtracted 30 inches from the regular inch size of each Product.

42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34
12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4

This Code Size will be found printed on the reverse side of your special Charis Tape Measure at the point which corresponds with the inch size needed.


Taking Code Measurements

The woman who is sensitive about her Size is apt to be sensitive about her measurements also a good reason many corsetieres, as the gain experience, prefer to use the code side of the Tape Measure for the taking of the measurements.

The same rules are used to determine the Size of Garment Needed and the customer??? the measurements have been taken with the inch or code side of the Tape Measure ??? that when the Waist measurement is taken from the special point indicated on the ??? Measure automatically adds the necessary five inches to this measurement as it is taken.

Bust Waist Abdomen   Size Needed Hip Measure Hip Type
10 9 8   10 12 Hip larger by 2 is A
10 11 11   11 10 Hip smaller by 1 is N
10 9 10   10 15 Hip larger by 5 is F


Selecting the Garment

Having determined our customer's 4th Dimension, Hip Type and Skirt Length, all we have left to consider is the need for some specific feature, and her preference as to price.


Type of Inner Control

The type of inner-control featured by the models designed for your customer's correct Figure Group will afford her the best results.


Soft, Semi-Soft Top or Firm Top

This is largely a matter of individual preference. A semi-soft top affords much the same support as firm top, and it has more "eye appeal."


Built-Up Shoulder Models

Are a wise choice for the customer with heavy or pendulous busts, also the customer with faulty posture as well as when the shoulder blades are fleshy.


Long Waisted Garments

To determine the Waist Length place the end of the tape measure at the fullest point of the bust. Let your thumb carry it in under the bust following the natural outline of the figure. Read the tape at the exact waistline. A measurement of more than 8 inches is Long-Waisted.  Such figures should be fitted with a girdle and separate Bra, or if in Group 5-6 with one of the long-waisted garments (5A72-L or 5F72-L).


Vari-Form Bras

Charis Bras are designed for four different Bust Developments, or Bust Types, as indicated.  The first symbol of the Style Code indicates the Bust Type of the individual Bra.


Bust Types

1- Small  2- Medium  3-Full  4-Pendulous

For Example-

1B 2B 3B
1- small bust 2- medium bust 3- full bust
B- Bandeau B- Bandeau B- Bandeau

TO DETERMINE THE SIZE OF VARI-FORM BRA NEEDED, take a Rib Measurement straight around the figure, directly under the bust. Choose the size indicated by this Rib Measurement, as follows -


Rib Measurement 25 27 29 31 33 35 37
to 26 28 30 32 34 36 38
Size Needed 0 2 4 6 8 10 12


Rib Measurement 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41
Size Needed 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

The Bust Type Needed is determined by the shape of the Bust and the relationship of the Bust Measurement to the Rib Measurement. As a rule your eye will confirm the fact that it is best to choose a ???

No. 1 Pocket when the Bust Measurement is 4 inches larger than the Rib Measurement.

No. 2 Pocket when the Bust Measurement is 5 inches larger than the Rib Measurement.

No. 3 Pocket when the Bust Measurement is 6 inches larger than the Rib Measurement.

No. 4 Pocket when the Bust Measurement is 7 inches larger than the Rib Measurement.

Bandeaux and Brassieres that are available in one Bust Type only must be chosen in the Size indicated by the customer's Bust Measurement.


Ask Yourself

What are the three important ways in which figures of the same size vary from each other?

What determines the individual customer's corset need, or in other words, how much corset she needs?

What is meant by the "condition" of the body?

What are the five figure Factors that influence a woman's silhouette?

How can the Charis Corsetiere appraise the condition of the figure, thus determining the degree of corset need?

What does the individual symbol of the Charis three symbol Basic Style Code indicate?

How does the Charis System of Corsetry provide for the widely varying hip development found in figures of the same bust size?

What will happen if the garment chosen is too short for the figure?

Should the customer's measurements be taken over her outer apparel?

What must be marked before starting to take the measurements?

Which measurements should be taken from the back of the figure?

Which measurements should be taken with the customer seated?

What measurement may be taken snugly?

Which measurement do we add five to? Why?

Which measurements are considered in determining the Size of Garment Needed?

Which two things are compared to determine the customer's hip type?

How is the Size of a Charis Product indicated?

What size and Hip Type do the following measurements indicate?

Bust Waist Abdomen Hip Size Hip Type
37 31 36 40    
43 39 44 46    
47 43 45 46    
39 33 40 45